|
"The Desert of Death", "The Desert Into which He who Enters Will Not
Return", "The Abandoned Place". The Taklamakan Desert
does not attract by reputation; it is an infamous expanse whose name
seems to have as many translations as the number of ancient cities over
whom its sands have long since formed a shroud. One of the largest
'shifting' deserts in the world, it once formed the greatest obstacle to
be found along the Silk Road and fearful Caravaneers of old would skirt its
edges, to the north or to the south, as they transported their wares
from oasis to oasis and on to Khotan, Kashgar or Chang-an. Even then it
was not unusual for entire Caravans to disappear into the dust storms
that would oft-times blow up and from which mysterious music was said to
lure travellers away to their deaths. Despite its reputation however the
rarely-visited interior of the desert and particularly the area covered
by our expedition is considered to be one of the most mesmerizingly beautiful
sights in the East and surreal with an unearthly intensity beyond the
city-dweller's imagination. As well as towering sand dunes and lost
cities there are found occasionally the remains of ancient forests and
post-fluvial
riverbeds hiding amidst the hauntingly attractive desert vistas.
Many centuries ago, before an earlier bout of climate change stymied the
life-giving glacial melt that thundered down from the Kunlun Mountains,
ancient Buddhist Kingdoms thrived far beyond what has now become the
desert's edge. It was in search of their remains that, in the
early years of our last century, the quintessential Silk Road
archaeologist and desert explorer
Sir Aurel Stein
ventured deep into the Taklamakan - and, despite its name, came out to
tell his amazing tale. On this pioneering, and to some extent
exploratory, expedition The Oriental Caravan will retrace some of the
journey undertaken by Stein and visit some of the remote sites from
which his discoveries brought so much excitement to the archaeological
world. Our trek in particular will allow us to explore the important
Tibetan fort at Mazartagh where Stein's discovery of 'woodslips' gave
invaluable insight into the administrative system that underpinned the
then dominant Tibetan Empire.
As well as visiting the most
important cities and sites around its perimeter this trip should prove
to be an unforgettable experience as we cross the
Taklamakan from South to North, part of the way by jeep but also
involving a 7 day trek. Accompanied by our experienced, local Uighur
guides, with camels for porterage and supported by Silk Road veteran and
Chief Caravaneer Phil Colley we will be following in the
footsteps of Sir Aurel Stein. Each day our Caravan will make its way
slowly through the dunes, resting at night beneath the desert stars,
warmed by a campfire, washed no doubt by plaintive song in a magical emptiness
far, far from the madding crowd. |
|