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Setting off in the early morning desert mist |
Map of the trek route -
click to enlarge |
Gathering camels before loading in the morning |
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It was a 2 day drive over
sand dunes from the nearest town, Yutian, to the trek startpoint |
En route to
Karadong ancient city |
Karadong, a fortified
checkpoint, inhabited between 100BC and 400AD has been visited by only a
handful of people since its 'discovery' in 1898 by
Sven Hedin.
Climate change some 1500 years ago lead to many such sites being
swallowed up by the sands. |
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Local from Tonguzbasti,
part of the Lost Tribe of the Taklamakan, who were fortunate enough to
remain unknown to the Chinese authorities until the 1980s |
Some of the many, many
dunes! |
Diversifolious
poplar
(Populus euphratica) trees
dot the desert close to the Keriya River. The Taklamakan Desert was once
a sea and if you dig far enough down, 10 meters or so, brackish water
can be found |
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A rare
white rainbow |
One of several
mummies discovered
in the Tarim Basin some of whom are evidently of 'Celtic' origin |
Scene from Karadong. For a
partial account (odd pages only!) of Stein' visit,
click here |
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En route from Yutian to Tonguzbasti, one of very few
houses, with no neighbours for 50 miles and architectural style and
materials barely changed for 2000 years |
Goat on sale at
Kashgar animal market |
Romanticised image of
Uighur classical musicians performing
muqam |
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Bactrian camels |
Shadows of Bactrian camels |
Another day, another dune... |
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Due to the dry atmosphere many of the desert's trees
remain despite having died over a 1000 years ago |
Sheep bottoms on display in Kashgar |
Camel at dawn |
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In the centre of the desert many dunes are 100s of metres
high - hard going! |
A
camel tick, once fully gorged on blood, drops off its host, to die
alone in the sand |
Goats being herded at the remote village of Tonguzbasti |
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Caravaneers forging their way through the desert day |
Chief Caravaneer Phil with our three cameleers, Ibrahim,
Daman and Aziz |
Daman and the lead camel |
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We saw the prints of the desert fauna but not the animals
themselves. These are hare prints. There are also foxes and the usual
smaller rodents as well as a fair amount of birdlife near the Keriya
river. |
Ephedra,
from which ephedrine is derived. grows on the edges of the desert and
was often found clutched in the hands off the Tarim mummies. It is
believed to have been part of the ancient
Soma cult |
At Kashgar animal market,
Uighurs - the first of the Turkic nomads to
settle to a pastoral existence more than a thousand years ago making
Xinjiang their home, |
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Uighur tradesman at Kashgar Market |
Diversifolious
poplar |
Uighurs in Urumqi
rose up in
July 2009 resentful of recent massive Han Chinese immigration into Xinjiang |
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Ancient methods of silk production still continue near
Khotan |
Uighur inhabitant of the Keriya area |
Kashgar 'market street'[ in 2010.
Click here to see how the
street has changed since 1992 |
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Uighur inhabitant of the Keriya area |
Khotanese boy |
Uighur inhabitant of the Keriya area |
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Entrance to a desert house |
Camel caravan |
Though days were intensely hot, the desert nights were
freezing - minus 5°C. Mornings began with shaking the ice from tents before
setting off across the frozen dunes... |
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Uighur inhabitant of the Keriya area |
Tash
Rabat - a15th century stone
caravanserai near
Naryn, en route to the Tourgut pass |
At home in the desert |
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Crossbeam at Karadong |
Shop in
Tongguzbasti (click for satellite map) |
Group and staff safely arrived at the end of the crossing |
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That's all, folks! With best wishes for a merry festive season and happy
travels for 2011,
from Phil and all aboard
The Oriental Caravan |
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Chief Caravaneer, Phil Colley, out in the midday sun |
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