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Postcard from the Deep North...
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click here for details of next years tohoku itinerary
| Spring 2003
Dear All, After its blossom-filled adventures in Kyushu, southern Japan, and a few days wandering the backstreets of Tokyo, by mid-April, The Oriental Caravan was once again ready to head for the hills, eager to face the poetic challenges of Tohoku, the Deep North of Japan.
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Despite its great natural beauty, warm rustic allure, and wonderfully engaging people, Tohoku is an area rarely visited by foreigners and, as far as we know, this Spring's pioneering Caravaneers were the first western adventure travel group ever to explore the area. |
| Even for modern Japanese this part of the world is considered remote - a place of myths and monsters, of spirits and saints, a place where the charm of 'Lost Japan' can still be found. |
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For much of our journey we followed in the footsteps of the
great Japanese haiku poet, Matsuo Basho. As Basho began his epic
journey, setting off by foot some 300 years ago, he remarked,
"Here I am in the second year of Genroku, suddenly taking it into my head to make a long journey to the far northern provinces. I might as well be going to the ends of the earth". The Narrow Road to the Deep North, 1689 |
| Though conditions for the modern traveller have improved beyond measure since Basho's day, many things have remained very much the same. Amidst the ancient, towering cedar forests of Haguro Mountain, for example, yamabushi, ascetic mountain dwelling followers of the Shingon Buddhist sect, are still said to practice extreme feats of physical and mental endurance. These include extended periods sitting immersed in cold waterfalls and nanban ibushi a practice which involves staying at length in a room filled with the acrid smoke of burning red peppers. |
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Fortunately, being on holiday, our fearless Caravaneers managed to resist such ascetic temptations and instead settled for the rigours of fine Japanese cuisine and some superbly characterful accommodation. |
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The accommodation was in fact one of the highlights of the trip and the hospitality we received, especially at establishments which had rarely before been host to foreigners, was often disarming. |
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In Hiraizumi, ancient powerbase of the Fujiwara clan, our night was spent in the grounds of Motsu ji temple, looking out across the lake of Jodo En, Japan's most renowned 'paradise garden'. Earlier that day we were received by peace campaigner Mr Nobu Iwabuchi who gave us a fascinating insight into recent Japanese history. |
| Finally we returned to the buzz and excitement of Tokyo for a long weekend of reflection - and, of course, a moment or two of saké-fuelled revelry... |
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We returned home with lasting memories of the many places and people that provided a truly unique and different insight into Japan, and as always there were more than a few things that made us smile - a truly great trip, thanks to all the Caravaneers who shared the journey. Within the next 2 weeks The Oriental Caravan will set off once again, this time across the vast, unspoilt grasslands of Mongolia on a journey through the Land of the Khans. We'll be sure to send another postcard from there, so until then, please take good care.
With best wishes from
Phil and all aboard The Oriental Caravan |
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